One-time close construction · North Carolina
Construction loans in Charlotte — close once, build, move in.
One closing instead of two, your rate locked from day one, and a construction payment that stays the same every month instead of climbing with every draw.
The payment while you build
This is where our program differs from most construction loans, and it's worth understanding before you compare offers.
Work it out on your build
Expect pricing on a build loan to sit above an ordinary purchase quote. You are buying a single closing and a rate held steady across the better part of a year, and that costs something. Note the monthly figure comes off the full loan amount, so releases going out to your builder never move it.
Your payment while building
$2,108
flat, every month
An estimate of principal and interest, nothing more — not an offer, a quote, or any commitment to lend. Property taxes, insurance and inspection fees fall outside it.
Price My BuildWhy one closing matters more than the rate
A two-close construction loan means a short-term loan to build, then a separate mortgage at the end. It sounds like paperwork. It isn't.
You have to qualify twice. If your income changes, you take on a car payment, your credit dips, or rates move against you during a nine-month build, that second approval is not guaranteed. People have finished a house and been unable to finance it.
Closing once takes that risk off the table. One approval, granted before a shovel goes in the ground. The rate is fixed that day, with a float-down attached — a real drop in the market can still be captured, a rise cannot touch you. Once the county signs off on occupancy, the same loan converts to your permanent mortgage carrying that same rate. Nothing swaps out at the end and nobody re-examines your file, provided you finish inside the schedule.
What it takes to qualify
Minimums here are the ordinary agency ones. Split-loan products generally demand more equity while the house is going up, which is a real cash difference at the start.
Plans to keys
Six stages, one closing — which happens at the start, not the end.
Building around Charlotte
New construction is a large share of what's moving across Union County — Waxhaw, Weddington, Wesley Chapel, Marvin and Indian Trail in particular, where lots are larger and buyers are more often building than buying resale.
If you're using the builder's preferred lender, get a second quote anyway. Incentives toward closing costs are sometimes genuinely good and sometimes priced back into the rate. I'll tell you honestly which one you're looking at, including when theirs is the better deal.
If the finished value lands above the conforming limit — common enough in Weddington and Marvin — this becomes a jumbo construction conversation and the lender list shortens. Worth establishing early rather than three weeks before closing.
And if you're self-employed, construction underwriting is no more forgiving than any other file. Worth reading how bank statement income works before you go under contract with a builder.
Construction loan questions
What do I actually pay each month while the house is being built?
Half of what the finished loan will cost you monthly, and that number holds steady from the first month to the last. Most construction lending bills you interest on whatever has been released so far, which means a small bill early and a much larger one by the time the roof is on — difficult to budget for across the better part of a year. This program fixes the figure instead. Take a $700,000 loan: whatever the full payment works out to, you pay half of it every month you are building, then the real payment begins once you have the keys.
Is my rate locked while I build?
It is, from the day you sign, and for most borrowers that protection is the entire argument for this structure. There is a float-down attached, so a meaningful drop in the market during your build can be captured, while a rise cannot reach you. Pricing on these sits somewhat above what you would be quoted on an ordinary purchase — think of the difference as what you pay for certainty across a nine or ten month build rather than a penalty. Whatever you lock carries through to the permanent loan unchanged; nothing re-prices at handover.
How many draws do I get?
Twelve is the ceiling, and the money released at closing counts as the first of them. The rhythm is simple: your builder finishes a stage, asks for an inspection, and money moves once the inspector confirms the work. Fees for those releases are already inside the loan rather than billed to you separately. There is a limit on that first release — the lesser of fifty thousand dollars or a tenth of what the home costs to build.
How much do I need to put down?
Standard agency minimums apply, which is worth pausing on — products that split the build and the mortgage into two loans typically want considerably more equity while the house is going up. Here it is 5% on conventional, 3.5% on FHA, and nothing at all on VA or USDA where you qualify for them. Separately, plan on holding roughly two months of the full payment in the bank once you have closed.
Do I need to own the land first?
Not before we start. Plenty of people come to me with plans drawn and a builder lined up while they are still looking at lots — a pre-approval lets you go and buy one, and the money released at closing covers it. Already own your lot? The equity in it goes toward your down payment and costs, and an outstanding loan against it does not disqualify you. One wrinkle on valuation: hold the land more than a year and we use the appraised figure, buy it recently and we use your purchase price.
Can I use my own builder?
Almost certainly, provided they clear approval and hold a general contractor licence with insurance behind it. Track record carries weight — someone two houses into their career is a difficult approval unless there is prior work under another contractor to point at. Building it yourself is not an option on this product. The useful part is that vetting your builder happens alongside underwriting rather than after it, so raising it early costs you nothing in time.
What kind of contract do I need?
The price has to be fixed at signing. Cost-plus arrangements will not fly here, however normal they are elsewhere in the trade. Build in a five percent cushion for overruns, and put the whole schedule inside eleven months. More time can sometimes be arranged, but treat that as something you would have to ask for and justify rather than something granted automatically — which is a good argument for a schedule with slack in it from the start.
What credit score do I need?
Conventional wants 680 here. That is a step up from an ordinary purchase, and the reason is straightforward — a lender financing a house that does not exist yet is carrying more risk than one lending against a finished one. FHA and USDA sit at 620, VA at 580, and a manufactured set-up at 650. On debt load, conventional tops out near 45% and FHA closer to 56%, while VA follows whatever the automated findings return and can stretch well past either.
Can I build while I still own my current home?
You can, so long as the file supports both housing payments at once. Where that gets tight and the plan is to let the current place out, there are situations in which the rent can be counted toward qualifying — it depends on what you can document, so raise it early rather than assuming either way.
Can the builder pay some of my closing costs?
They can, and negotiating it into the build contract is among the more effective ways to reduce what you physically bring to the closing table. The caps mirror the ones that apply to a seller helping a buyer: 6% on FHA and USDA, 4% on VA, and on conventional it turns on your down payment — 3% below the ten percent mark, 6% once you are at or above it.
Tell me about your build
Where you are — plans drawn, builder chosen, lot bought, or still working it out. No credit pull, and earlier is genuinely better on construction files.
Ready to get started? Skip the questions and start the secure application — it takes about 15 minutes, and it's the same form we'll need later anyway.
Prefer to just talk? Call or text (704) 287-8746.